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Cycling by the river Po

  • Jasmina
  • Dec 7, 2017
  • 4 min read

Back into writing. Sorry for the delay. I got injured, had surgery and then laid in bed. Nothing unusual. These things happen. Yes, sure, but why bad things happen all at once? I am in the middle of a house move, I gave notice almost a month ago. While I am uselessly lying in bed one of my flatmates, out of the blue, refuses to sign the contract for the flat we are moving in. I am in a bed which will be mine just for a few more days. I give myself three days of time to find a home. I won’t be working, therefore I won’t have income for three months. Will at all any agency let us in a property in such conditions? I don’t think so. I will have to provide fake information to pass the reference check. My mind is overloaded. I just want to forget. It’s just better if I continue writing.

Vukasin was waiting for me in the harbour of Chioggia. My first couchsurfing experience. A world that opened my mind. Couchsurfing is a service that connects members to a global community of travellers. You can find a place to stay or share your home with travellers. Vukasin was doing the same, accepting travellers in his home. He was very welcoming and since I was hungry we went to eat something straight away. I discovered that Vukasin was a very ambitious 18 years old guy, who wanted to study translation and languages after graduating from school. I got an overall good impression of him and was pleased to have met such a friendly person. The temperature in his home was not so friendly though. A hot flat in a sultry city and in the middle of a hot summer ended up in a sleepless night. In the morning I realised I had slept on the floor of the balcony. I woke up tired but still full of energy. A new day, a new destination, a new challenge. Vukasin showed me Chioggia, another example of city in Venetian style. I thanked him for his hospitality and continued my way towards my new destination: Ferrara, a stunning Renaissance town. My plan was to reach river Po crossing river Adige, passing Cavarzere and Adria. I didn’t imagine that it would be extremely monotonous. All flat land, crops, anonymous desert towns (apparently nobody wishes to stay outside in the summer heat).

Finally I reached the Po, I took the cycle path on the river bank which is part of the Eurovelo 8, an itinerary called The Mediterranean Route which connects Cadiz with Athens. In front of me appeared an entirely different scenery. The view was breathtaking. The Po was flowing slowly and in silence, regardless of time, an incredible power hidden in its lethargic way of progressing towards the sea. Secluded from the world by rows of poplar trees with fluff floating through the air, lying on the ground and on the water surface. The whole landscape was completely white of fluff as if it was snowing. Birds and herons were home here. I was amazed and astonished. In this complete silence and apparent stillness there was so much activity and happening. A completely separate world in the midst of the Po Valley, hidden and forgotten by people. Ironically this same river created the huge Po flat land with its action, transporting debris and filling up the valley with sediments.

My wanderlust was fulfilled at such view but it was time to continue. I had 40 km/25 miles ahead of me along the Po before reaching Ferrara. Cycling became very soon unbearable. I was cycling on asphalt, under the blazing sun, no shade, no wind, thirsty, with water supply at the end. I called for help and the river, my only companion, invited me in its waters. Dressed as I was I swam in it regardless of the prohibition. I continued to cycle soaked but the sun dried me so quickly that I needed a second swim some miles ahead. I finished my water supplies and was impatiently trying to reach the next rural town. Finally I reached one, a desert village with no people or open shops. Eventually after a long search I found a tiny bar. What a relief!!! Water! Ice pop! Food… That break rejuvenated me completely. I looked at the map. I wasn’t that far from Pontelagoscuro where I had to leave the path along the river and head to Ferrara. My last few miles of the day.

I feel much better now, writing and going through joyful memories was helpful. Irena, my dad’s partner flew to London, she is now assisting me and my daughter like a nurse and will help us in the flat moving. My lovely partner is helping me as well, together with intelligent collaboration we managed to find a suitable flat in limited amount of time. We will soon live all together as a family. I am so excited!!! Things are working out wonderfully, despite the millions of life complications. I feel as somebody is protecting us. Is this what people call power of faith? If so, it’s a marvelous feeling.

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