A sleepless night on the Via Francigena

I woke up in San Casciano dei Bagni, prepared my bike and said goodbye to my friend; time permitting we would meet again in Rome. My day was starting passionately downhill and soon I would be leaving Tuscany and entering in Latium. Nobody was hosting me and I had no clue where I would be spending the night. My plan was to reach Acquapendente and link to the via Francigena which would take me to my destination. I was approaching the capital and I was realising that the dream was slowly ending.

The first stage was on twisting country roads, with far-reaching views of golden rolling hills. Chianina cattle and horses were grazing in the enclosures. There were barren hills burnt by the sun and green hills covered with wood towards east, farms here and there. I arrived in Acquapendente before noon and searched for road signs indicating the Via Francigena or Via Romea, a pilgrimage route, used for centuries by pilgrims all over Europe who were visiting the tombs of the apostles Peter and Paul. Its starting point was the cathedral of Canterbury in Kent, and crossed France, Switzerland and Italy.

On the via Francigena I was entering a different world where it seemed as if time had frozen. I was not on paved roads any more but in woods, following streams, fields, olive groves, vineyards, grassland and hill ridges. For hours I cycled completely alone, meeting no human being on the way. I wasn’t bored though, the diversity of the landscape and its magic beauty were fascinating, certainly the most gratifying part of the whole trip. The first surprise arouse once I reached the edge of the crater of a former volcano, in which lays lake Bolsena. From that height the view was breathtaking, a short stop was mandatory. The sunlight was reflecting on the calm surface of the lake, I was impressed. Before descending to the lake and to the town of Bolsena, I met a very exhausted couple who was cycling along the via Francigena from Turin. Soon we split, they were longing to arrive in Bolsena at the earliest and took the motorway to speed up. I preferred to follow the original walking path, not suitable for bikes, but much more enjoyable in terms of sightseeing. The path was following the ridge of the volcanic crater and then descending gently. Olive trees and vines were planted on its slopes. As soon as I arrived I bathed in the lake and took my time to rest a while. There were sailing boats in the lake and an island was visible in the distance. I wondered if it was the island where the queen of Goths Amalasunta was imprisoned and then tragically assassinated.

It was afternoon and I decided to continue my journey. The path was very steep and soon I had to pushbike up to the border of the crater. Arrived at the top, the landscape changed completely. I was in some sort of glade which had been recently deforested to leave space for grazing. Suddenly a sheepdog appeared growling at me. I was frightened but I kept cycling slowly. The dog didn’t bother to chase me, I was glad the threat was over. At that point horseflies started chasing me and stinging me all over the body. I sped up cursing at the irritating insects. They stopped annoying me just once I left the clearing behind me. I arrived in a leafy and humid wood which was concealing a gurgling stream and an outlying chapel. I passed a tiny bridge and followed the indications towards Montefiascone. Scattered houses started to appear and I realised I was not far from Montefiascone, a town dominating the area on the opposite side of lake Bolsena. It was late afternoon when I reached the town center and managed to catch a bewitching sunset upon the lake, what a perfect timing! I walked around the town which amused me like most of the towns I had encountered but I was getting nervous. I still didn’t know where I would spend the night. I had a sleeping bag and I knew I would be somewhere on my own. I decided it would be better to sleep in someone’s garden instead of some random field. I had to reach the suburb or a village where all houses had gardens. It felt awkward but I had to take courage and start asking people to host me in their garden. After much indecision, I saw a lady in the garden of a massive villa hanging out the laundry. I approached her and asked her if I could stay in the garden for the night. She looked at me grimly and firmly refused. My first attempt went wrong, I was starting to get anxious and discouraged but I pursued on. I said to myself: remember how it feels like when you go salsa dancing and you invite a stranger for a dance and he refuses? At the beginning it feels bad but then you just get used to it. You accept it as part of life. I went further on but got refused for the second time. At my third endeavour, I finally succeeded: a kind lady let me in her garden. I felt relieved. Bless her! The lady was in her fifties and lived with her husband and son, but that day she was alone and appreciated some company. I was tired however and wished to rest. I went in the garden and lied on my mat. It felt weird to sleep with no sort of roof protection like a tent. Actually I was so scared that I didn’t sleep deep. I continued hearing noises (I think of small animals) through all the night and at once I felt as if a creature was approaching me. I jerked awake and the animal ran away. I just hope it was nothing more than a curious cat.

That night proved me that I am a chicken. Fearing night. This ain't no good. I will have to grow up and face my fears. Sooner or later.

#longdistancecycling #pilgrimageroute #ViaFrancigena #Chianina #craterlake #Acquapendente #Bolsena #chapelinthewoods #Montefiascone #outdoorsleeping